Years ago, I was having one of those typical, “Where have you been travelling?” conversations and met someone who showed me her photos of the San Blas Islands. The water was impossibly blue, and at the time, Panama wasn’t on my destination list, but it was after seeing those photos.
It took a few years for me to make it there, but the San Blas Islands definitely did not disappoint. I booked a three-day excursion and they make it very clear that this is not a luxury experience. Most thrifty travelers aren’t expecting luxury, but really understanding what the San Blas Islands are is key to loving this place.
What the San Blas Islands Are Really Like?
The San Blas Islands are a collection of over 360 islands, but only about 49 are inhabited by the indigenous Guna people, and only a handful have tourist accommodations. These islands are still fully owned by the Guna, so if you’re expecting Marriott, Hilton, or anything even remotely resembling a hotel, you’re in the wrong place.
Lodging here consists of very basic cabins. If you’re lucky, they’ll have wood floors. Many are just built directly over the sand. None have private bathrooms. The water for the shared bathrooms comes from very large water tanks on the top of the bathhouse, not from actual plumbing. If you don’t like camping, this probably isn’t the place for you.
But if you’re looking for absolutely gorgeous, pristine, remote islands without over-commercialization, this is exactly the place to be. And remote doesn’t mean boring. Each island has its own personality, and I met some absolutely fantastic people there. So if you are willing to give up a few creature comforts, put this place on your bucket list!
Getting There (and Why Day Trips Are Tough)
There are multiple ways to visit the San Blas Islands. Many people do day trips, but it would be a very long day.
I was picked up in Panama City at 5:00 a.m. and didn’t reach my island until around 11:00 a.m. That included hotel pickups around the city, a breakfast stop, a passport control checkpoint, waiting at the dock, and then heading to one of the further-out islands, since I was staying overnight. I personally can’t imagine turning around and going back the same day.
The last hour of the drive is definitely a lot of windy turns, so motion sickness pills definitely help. The dock itself is chaotic. Lots of people, lots of boats, day trippers mixing with overnight guests. As one fellow traveler said to me, “You could digitize the whole system and send people out on giant ferries — but where would the charm be in that?” I couldn’t agree more. This is the kind of remote paradise where going old-school feels right.
There are some negative reviews out there, but most come from people who didn’t really understand what they were getting into. I thought Sea San Blas did a great job setting expectations.
I’ve read complaints about unsafe boat drivers and soaked luggage. My experience was very different. Our luggage was protected under tarps, and while passengers definitely got wet in the open boats, everything felt well-managed.
That said, if you only have one day, the San Blas Islands are still not to be missed. But if you can stay overnight or longer, I would highly recommend it.
All of the trips are all-inclusive with ground transportation, boat transportation, accommodation, and meals. Day trips are about $100, and 2-3 night trips range from $165 – $385, depending on which islands and whether you pick group or private cabins. There is a $22 Guna Yala Border tax that is not included.
Island Life: Go With the Flow
There are many islands you can stay on, and honestly, they’re all beautiful. I visited multiple islands during my three days, and most of them took no more than ten minutes to walk around.
I stayed on Pelícano Island, which was described as one of the more “laid-back” islands. The packing list literally said “pack good vibes,” and people really did. It also happens to be where Season 3 of Money Heist was filmed. Yes, it’s that gorgeous.
Part of the charm here is disconnecting. And despite minimal amenities, there was a communal charging station for phones. While this feels like the kind of place that would only appeal to backpackers, there was a wide range of ages and nationalities. Since the islands are so small, you naturally interact with everyone on the beach, during communal meals, playing volleyball, or hopping between islands during the day.
This is very much a go-with-the-flow kind of place. It’s not a rigid, highly structured tour. People come and go, stay on different islands, and join different excursions day to day, but no matter where you end up, everything is remote, beautiful, relaxed, and chill.
They run excursions every day, which, of course, never leave on time. On my first day, the excursion was supposed to go to three places, and we only went to one. I had a lovely time chilling in a hammock with a coconut drink in hand, so it worked out just fine for me. And, it turned out the two places we missed were stops on my excursion on the third day. Destinations included other islands, natural pools, sand bars, snorkeling spots, and even a pipeline in the middle of the sea. As I said, go with the flow.
How Tourism Works in the San Blas Islands
One of the most fascinating things about San Blas is that the Guna people own the islands, the accommodations, and the boats. Tour agencies are forbidden from owning property or employing anyone within the San Blas region.
That means tour operators don’t actually control accommodations, bathrooms, island amenities like water sports equipment, meals, or boat transfers between the islands. They coordinate logistics and excursions, but the boats and lodges are all Guna-owned. This is exactly why visiting San Blas independently is so difficult. Few Guna speak English, and many don’t even speak Spanish. Check-in for the cabins happens in a paper ledger. I truly have no idea who you would even call to try to make the arrangements yourself.
I stayed on Pelícano for two nights. People came and went, heading to different islands or excursions. Some people hop from one island to another each night for several nights, while others pick one. When you book through a tour operator, you aren’t really booking a group tour, but rather your own set of excursions.
I happened to be there over New Year’s Eve, and after spending a day and a half with the same group, we rang in the new year together. There were really impressive fireworks over the palm trees, a buffet, and champagne. Despite the language differences, our Guna danced, limboed, and drank with us, and most importantly, made sure we were enjoying their paradise.
Guna Culture: A Matriarchal Society
One of the most interesting cultural details is that Guna women own the islands, but are not allowed to work where the tourists stay. Ownership is passed to daughters or sisters, and if there’s no female heir, the island is auctioned off before being given to a man.
Men do the visible work, but women control the finances and ownership. It’s deeply ingrained in their culture. Marriages aren’t arranged, but there really is no dating. Community leaders are very involved in marriages after two people show interest in each other.
Food, Facilities, and Expectations
The food is very fresh. You can literally watch fish being pulled from the ocean, but the preparation is very simple. Sometimes there is an option between chicken and fish, and sometimes it’s just a whole fish on a plate. This is not five-star dining, and meals can feel repetitive if you stay longer.
The rooms were basic, but the views from the cabins more than made up for it. I stayed in a group cabin one night and a private cabin the second, and sitting on the deck of the cabin over the water was one of my favorite parts of the trip. Since the bathrooms are supplied by tanks, toilet can and will clog. Showers can run out of water. But it gets fixed pretty quickly. And again, all of this is controlled by the Guna, not your tour operator, which I personally found really interesting.
For most Thrifty Nomad travelers, probably not a problem. The pristine, authentic, non-commercialized, chill, fun island experience is totally worth it and absolutely incredible.
Can You Visit the San Blas Islands Without a Tour?
According to the very knowledgeable tour guide I spoke with, technically, yes, but it’s tough. You can book accommodations on Booking.com or Hotels.com, but then you’re on your own to arrange transportation from Panama City to the dock and from the dock to the islands.
And you can’t just buy boat tickets online. There’s a good chance you’ll show up at the dock, and all the boat spots are sold to tour operators in advance. This is a paper-and-pencil operation that works because the Guna people have been working with each other for years.
Island Vibes: Where to Stay and How Long
All the islands are stunning, but they have very different vibes:
- Aroma – Backpacker-focused, dorm-style accommodations, party-friendly, and one of the cheapest options
- Franklin & Chichime – Budget-friendly backpacker islands with a social atmosphere
- Aguja & Yanis – More relaxed and quieter
- Pelícano – A mix of everything: families, couples, solo travelers, and a wide age range
I stayed three days and two nights, with a late checkout on the third day, and it felt perfect. I had time to relax, visit multiple islands, snorkel, kayak, see starfish, rays, and explore remote uninhabited islands like the Dutch Cays, which aren’t accessible to day trippers.
The Thrifty Gist
The San Blas Islands aren’t necessarily cheap by backpacker standards, but the all-inclusive nature makes it worthwhile. Staying longer makes the price per day lower and the experience so much better because of the long travel time. Chichime and Aroma are the least expensive islands to stay on.
Read Part 1 of our Panama Series Why Panama Belongs on Every Budget Traveller’s List